Kaajot
Micro Machine Manager
Second malingering issue I'm tackling on 92 F-150 Custom (RWD, 300-6 E40D)
I had purchased a second RABS I Module and swapped out after repairing the front brake line system just to be sure no hang-ups were there last Summer. The light continues to come on once I get above 35 mph and hit a nice bump. Two years ago I had replaced the Wheel Speed Sensor on the back differential there. The Pinion Seal is leaking so I probably need to learn how to crack that open -- oil is black as night. Unsure if that could cause the RABS light to illuminate?
I checked the gears through the hole where the Speed Sensor went once I popped it off -- looked ok. I replaced but sad to say the light comes back when I get above 35ish mph.
The leaf springs are due to be changed out. I have a set of F250 Springs installed and 1 of the leafs is cracked on the right side, but everything else is holding together. Still, that is on my to-do list and remove all the rust/paint/rubberize after install to give the frame and springs a good shot at another decade.
So after changing out the ABS Control Unit last Summer, repairing front lines, checking back lines for brake bleed hangups on the drum brakes, changing out the Wheel Speed Sensor for the second time in 2 years, etc and changing out the ABS Module with no change, as well as a failure to be able to pull codes from the ABS Module, I'm leaning towards a broken wire but where to begin looking for the broken/corroded wire?
The junked oil in the differential probably could throw some bad codes to the ABS Wheel Speed Sensor, but it shouldn't inhibit pulling codes which leads me to a broken/corroded wire.
I'm replacing my 7-pin and wiring today along with custom license plate lighting and adding some weatherproof improvements to that wiring and found a corroded blue brake control signal wire by my Fuel Filter that has been repaired once already in 2018 on the road, so I'll be installing upgraded weather-proof lines and connections (and soldering, yeah!) for good integrity. I got my photovoltaic equipment with me, so I can test just about any DC type circuit for amps and voltage (I know voltage is primary here anyway for auto diagnostics) if anyone has suggestions on where to look for an ABS wire crimp/break/corrosion issue that would cause the following symptoms.
1. RABS I Control Module will not provide codes no matter how many ways Code Test is initiated (will not begin test).
2. ~35 MPH RABS Light will always come on.
(3) Only ECM Code is 327 for EGR Sensor. Gonna clean out EGR later, install new one and if anyone knows the voltage to check the pins, want to make sure those are good as this is a persisting code and more likely needs pig tail replaced rather than actual sensor.
Link provided to my Google Drive with Wheel Speed Sensor port open to inspect teeth. I felt them with my seeing-eye nubs and didn't feel anything I thought was odd, but it's my first time putting any of my 21 digits in there. Maybe I just don't know. Oil was gritty, but didn't feel like metallic shards. Think it's just really dirty and due for a new pinon seal and flush.
RABS Wheel Speed Sensor Port Inspection
I had purchased a second RABS I Module and swapped out after repairing the front brake line system just to be sure no hang-ups were there last Summer. The light continues to come on once I get above 35 mph and hit a nice bump. Two years ago I had replaced the Wheel Speed Sensor on the back differential there. The Pinion Seal is leaking so I probably need to learn how to crack that open -- oil is black as night. Unsure if that could cause the RABS light to illuminate?
I checked the gears through the hole where the Speed Sensor went once I popped it off -- looked ok. I replaced but sad to say the light comes back when I get above 35ish mph.
The leaf springs are due to be changed out. I have a set of F250 Springs installed and 1 of the leafs is cracked on the right side, but everything else is holding together. Still, that is on my to-do list and remove all the rust/paint/rubberize after install to give the frame and springs a good shot at another decade.
So after changing out the ABS Control Unit last Summer, repairing front lines, checking back lines for brake bleed hangups on the drum brakes, changing out the Wheel Speed Sensor for the second time in 2 years, etc and changing out the ABS Module with no change, as well as a failure to be able to pull codes from the ABS Module, I'm leaning towards a broken wire but where to begin looking for the broken/corroded wire?
The junked oil in the differential probably could throw some bad codes to the ABS Wheel Speed Sensor, but it shouldn't inhibit pulling codes which leads me to a broken/corroded wire.
I'm replacing my 7-pin and wiring today along with custom license plate lighting and adding some weatherproof improvements to that wiring and found a corroded blue brake control signal wire by my Fuel Filter that has been repaired once already in 2018 on the road, so I'll be installing upgraded weather-proof lines and connections (and soldering, yeah!) for good integrity. I got my photovoltaic equipment with me, so I can test just about any DC type circuit for amps and voltage (I know voltage is primary here anyway for auto diagnostics) if anyone has suggestions on where to look for an ABS wire crimp/break/corrosion issue that would cause the following symptoms.
1. RABS I Control Module will not provide codes no matter how many ways Code Test is initiated (will not begin test).
2. ~35 MPH RABS Light will always come on.
(3) Only ECM Code is 327 for EGR Sensor. Gonna clean out EGR later, install new one and if anyone knows the voltage to check the pins, want to make sure those are good as this is a persisting code and more likely needs pig tail replaced rather than actual sensor.
Link provided to my Google Drive with Wheel Speed Sensor port open to inspect teeth. I felt them with my seeing-eye nubs and didn't feel anything I thought was odd, but it's my first time putting any of my 21 digits in there. Maybe I just don't know. Oil was gritty, but didn't feel like metallic shards. Think it's just really dirty and due for a new pinon seal and flush.
RABS Wheel Speed Sensor Port Inspection