Yeah, that's what it looks like to me, based on what the driver's side socket head pipe plug looks like - which WILL NOT budge out.

I need to dump the antifreeze tomorrow and would like to drain the block as well of the wrong stuff that's in there. I found what may be a drain on the left side(driver's side) tho wont be sure until I pull it. Can't locate one on the right side - anyone have an idea where it's located?

Final "analysis"I finished the brake job mid last week(Feb 7th) and am very happy with what I did. The brakes work well, and the parking brake is as ho hum as it ever was, but does hold and do what it was intended to do - it is NOT an emergency brake.This is a list and what I paid for each...

Made up a couple tools to install the bearing cup then the seal:

Oh my oh my !!! This has become a project and then some. Left side is complete, just waiting to have the system bled. I was also able to "save" the seal. The expansion spring stayed in place and there was no apparent damage. The right side - the seal was fine - that is until I had to pull the...

Now that make some sense.To anyone else that may read this in the future, i.e. Googled it, the Chilton fitzall manual doesn't.Now - if there had been a magic way to make the rust disappear besides using a cut off wheel, but my living in the rust belt of Upstate NY makes sure there is always...

Found my problem - rust!!! Had to cut the intermediate cable to rear cable connector - off it came.

I'm trying to remove as an assembly take to my warm inside shop then reassemble all of the new pieces using one as a guide to ensure all of the bit and pieces are in their right place. Both are loose as an assembly but the #$%@ cable just wont come off

Thanks for the good write up -This is where I run into my problem "Parking Brake Cable Tension Release". The Chilton says pull down on the intermediate cable, insert a steel pin through one of the holes in the pedal operated parking brake sector to keep it from rotating back. Unless I'm...

Been a l-o-o-ong time since I've been on here. Probably just ran out of time to 'puter putter, but I'm going to try to get back 'in touch' with an opening question.Rear brakes on my F350 - replacing the rotors, pads and calipers. Not too bad a job, just need a few tools and a BFH. That is...

To answer my own questions - this 'dedicated' Chilton's F350 manual is a POS, printed on stuff resembling toilet paper and having picture resolution that is so bad that most are useless as guides. Don't waste your money.'drama'As far as the howling hubs - they needed to be disassembled...

I have a V10. Gas mileage isn't spectacular - but it isn't much different then the 6.0/6.4 diesel. The V10 costs $7-8000 LESS to buy new and $3-5000 used. The V10 is seldom in any shop for anything - ever. It takes 7 quarts of oil and a $4.00 filter every 6000 miles - not 15 quarts and several...

I have the Motorsport/SVT heavy duty - and they, too have that spring washer that usually breaks

I "guessed" right then - so that's the way I had just installed it "assuming" .....:headbang:Sure would be nice if Ford and in their infinite wisdom would just give us a picture.Thanks

May be a dumb question - but I have a 302/5.0L that I'm putting together for a project vehicle. It's a roller/crate motor, manufactured in 1999 and have changed a bunch of 'stuff' including to an SVT heavy duty oil pump drive. Which end goes into the oil pump - the short or the long?? I've stood...