As do I ... ;)

It won't hurt it, but it also won't fix your issue to eliminate it. They are a bugger to position when pulling the tank down and putting it back. Its sole purpose is to let air that is being displaced by fuel back out the fill neck. Might be able to warm it up and put something inside to help...

Some are loving the patina and old look. I like both nice and shiny and used and aged looks. Looks like you are making great progress.

Cosmetically the Dennis Carpenter is definitely more accurate.

Most modern gaskets are silicone similar to that. I don't know what they withstand as far as tightening goes. You would want to be aware that you can overtighten them and damage them. Modern gaskets are also either in channels that keep them contained or have inserts in them to prevent...

It will compress in time. If the body lines are flush, it is adjusted proper. Also need to be sure the plastic on the door latch pin is in good shape. If it is worn, it can cause it to be harder to latch as well.

Looks like a nice, solid base with some interesting history to go with it.

Seem to recall that there is a check valve in the fuel line but could be wrong on that. Either way, it is definitely a case of the check valve for the front tank allowing it to go into the return side despite being the rear tank in operation.

Hard to say. After this many years, owner modifications are likely. Pics would help.

The hole I had was on the bottom, so wasn't easily visible.

Could well be a vacuum leak or as mentioned the power valve. I had a 75 that the hose to the brake booster developed a hole. It was intermittent about starting and once that got bad enough it wouldn't start at all.

The straps are essentially the same ones, just with extended bolts and pipe spacers... The sending unit is the original but modified. The instructions come with the tank if you buy one new. It was never factory issued, just an aftermarket option.

No trucks had factory injection in 1978, 460's didn't until into the later 80's or so. This will also still have steel lines, not plastic as that was also in the 80's.

If it has been sitting it may well have the carb gunked up with varnish. Since you have a new carb coming for it you wouldn't likely want to take time and money to try to clear it out. The fuel pump also may be failed. A note on the electric fuel pump is that you have to be somewhat cautious...

Main thing is being sure the oil drive didn't fall out and doesn't while you are trying to find the proper position. After that, making sure whether you are on #1 tdc or #6.Getting it to drop into the oil pump or drive can be troublesome, so if is pretty close, bar the motor over until it drops...

You may have an intercooler which is just a radiator for the air. When air is compressed it heats up, and the intercooler is designed to remove some of that heat for a denser charge for combustion. If this is the case, the turbo will have a tube that goes to the radiator area and another will...

Unfortunately he passed away a few years ago. However I can help. The bell housing on that should be equal as they were what were called SAE bell housings which is a common size spec across multiple engine manufacturers.

If it is dropping to 2 psi then you do have an issue - if the bowl is full you should definitely be reading full pressure, not reduced. The gauge is before the needle, not after. Realistically you are reading the resistance to flow in terms of pressure. If the bowl was empty, the flow would be...

Weak fuel pump is my thought. Possible to be something upstream from the pump as well, I don't think there would be a screen in the tank on those. Check the rubber lines underneath as well, pinholes can make for frustrating issues.

With everything else largely attended to, fuel supply or lack of timing advance is about all that is left. If it were newer a plugging cat could also be suspect however if memory serves you shouldn't have one from the factory. Another possible is the timing chain/sprockets. Trying to remember...

Main challenge is figuring out where it is getting the air from. Often it is the return caps and hoses, kits are available for that. You can generally spot leaks on the tops of the injectors or lines if they are seeping.

It could be a possibility. Hadn't really thought about that particular possibility.

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It is pretty much just vapor recovery. It is more EPA than engine function. The danger is if the tank gets too full it could possibly vent true liquid. There may have been a leak upstream or such to the tank that led them to block it off. You could try hooking it up and see if things trip a code.

You may not find a metal Motorcraft for that year. Other years may work, main thing is having that elbow for the turn. Personally I would go ahead and use the metal one you have.

I generally tend to try to find metal ones as have had history of even the Motorcraft plastic failing and letting the internals out. They are just a straight with an add on top cap that makes the turn.

Definitely a nice looking survivor. I have always like the sleeker look of the 92-7 models.

Wiring and heat don't play nice. Best I have found is a total rewire kit.

Check the blue fusible link to verify good/connected to the battery supply side of the solenoid.Found this:The fuel pump will NOT run with the key in run and the motor not running or when you cycle the key. The only time the fuel pump is supposed to run is when the starter is engaged or when...

That is more a what are you willing to pay, what is the local market like question. Out here in the rust belt it would likely get that price. Will you be able to turn around and sell it for the same or higher? Hard to say. Basically if you are happy with the truck and feel it worth letting the...