sweet 63's. i like the "wrong box". very nice.

pretty sure discs weren't available on the 67's yet. it should just be a distribution block. two lines in and three lines out.

probably not low enough, but here is my old 68.

how's everything in your neck of the show me state? weather's been fine here. went to a couple of cool shows t'wards the middle/end of sept. got my stance right and hubcaps chromed. also some pin striping on my ashtray. hope everyone is doing good and if anyone is ever in the north kc area feel...

i know it is.

where does your exhaust exit? under the truck or out the back/side?

the silver lining i see here is to trade for the nail head and since the are somewhat desirable i would trade it for a like or better small windsor ford. everyone wins. lol

i was just trying to rule out the starter getting hot or one of the connections or wires being exposed to excess heat. i had a cadillac that had an exhaust leak and it would cook the starter. started fine cold, but once driven i had to let it cool back down to restart.

i am assuming stock exhaust with no leaks and stock starter with a good positive cable. right?

ok. i misunderstood. so it cranks slow when warm after it's been driven. sorry for the confusion.

new foam and burlap, but the springs were all good. thanks for the compliment.

just got my seat back from the upholsterer yesterday.

sounds to me like vapor lock. when you shut it off after it's warm take the air cleaner off and listen for fuel boiling in the carb. my 67 does the same thing and you can literally hear the fuel boiling. a phenolic spacer between the carb and intake will help this problem.

i kinda like the first gen lightning wheels.

i'll be watching this one. always wanted a merc, alas, i am in missouri and have ever only seen one in person and wasn't sure if it was real. i would kill for a merc uni tailgate. lol have fun with your build.

that's cool. i need something like that to ride around in some of the bigger cruise ins.

i would just be careful around the distributor cap so not to get it wet. and maybe bring a can of wd-40 to spray in there if it does get to wet to start. other than that i would go to town.

well, i'm a little late to the party, but that is one cool truck. steal one of your wife's cookie sheets and put it under the engine and start scraping and then hit it with a few cans of generic engine degreaser and i'll bet that engine will look tons better. typical fe oil leakage. once you get...

nice score. nos is always good. there is a guy making them out of billet and lexan now too.

had a brain storm one day and decided i needed to have a 2n/8n/9n radiator cap emblem on my truck. so i cut the thing off of a replacement cap (2lbs pressure) and j.b. welded it to my stock cap.

it is about as low as a regular driver needs to be. any lower and we will need some major mods and will hit anything bigger than a pebble in the road.

the only factory red and white scheme would be rangoon red and wimbleton (corinthian) white.

no flat black, but maybe some pinstripes. maybe...

the 262 was a big truck engine. i think it was a one year option in 64. number dummy should be able to tell you. he knows everything.

photochop:

it's a work in progress. there is an awful lot of white there, but i don't really want to prep and paint the truck. i'm not sure what i am going to do next.

yeah, i want it lower too, but this was all i could afford for now. any lower and we start talking about notching the frame and welding some spring perches for a rear axle flip. i would also have to relocate the steering box and use a dropped i-beam or flipping the one i have.

before:after mono springs in the front and drop shackles in the back:this is a crappy pic with the front rear spring hangers installed along with the shackles.another view.

sounds like a weak fuel pump. disconnect it at the carb and have a friend hold something to catch the fuel and see how much its pumping.

if it has a three spoke steering wheel it is a 70. 71 was the first year for the two spoke padded wheel.