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Clutch won't disengage

Riotnrrd

Tennessee Chapter member
Manual clutch.

I'll get back out there and poke around on it more as soon as my 'real job' will let me.

Thanks to everyone for the comments, I'll definitely post some results as soon as I can get them!
 

1985 Ford F-150

Country Boys Can Survive
7,816
307
Tooele, Utah
Yeah id definitly pull the inspection cover off and see if everthin moves like it should. If it still dont come out of gear with the fork wired all the way back and nothins bent id say your clutch is probly toast.
 

Riotnrrd

Tennessee Chapter member
Took another look at the mechanical linkage, everything seems OK with the pedal and rods and equalizer and stuff.

I couldn't find a good way to wedge or wire the clutch back. With the mechanical linkage all the way back the clutch still wasn't disengaging, and I dont see the lever as being possible to go back much further.

I'm thinking its likely I'm going to need to open it up.

I looked around a little bit under there today and it looks like a bit of a bear to take the transmission out, which I think is required to get to the clutch parts. I want to drive it (been working on the suspension for a couple of months now), so I might just have to pay someone to do it for me!

I called a few places today but most shops appear closed on Saturdays. I don't have any recomendations (new to the area) but I have a couple people I can trust in the area to recommend places.

I did reach one shop in the area, who said that often if the linkage is fine, there could be a problem with one of the springs or something getting jammed up in the clutch. His quote was 450$ in labor + 150$ for a clutch kit to fix it.

600$ sounds like a lot more than I want to spend on a clutch job, so I hope to call around a few other places and find something cheaper... but does 600$ sound reasonable, or should I look for something less?

It is a 4x4, which might be more complicated to remove. If its going to cost 600$ I might even consider doing it myself, but it looks like a big job... and I've never messed with transmissions or clutch internals before, so it makes me a little nervous!

For those of you that had similarly stuck clutches before, did you do it yourself or take it somewhere, and if you did it yourself, what can cause a clutch to stick engaged like mine is? Bearings? Springs? Something else?
 

73F100Shortbed

That's how we roll!
5,937
320
NJ
$600 is about right. That's what I would have charged to do it around here. You do have to remove the transmission to get to the clutch and pressure plate. It is a big job if you never have done it before. It can be done in your driveway though. I would suggest the help of a friend to help line the transmission up. A transmission jack is also a good idea. You can also use two threaded rods in place of the transmission bolts to help guide it back into place. I've done my clutches myself on two trucks. But I worked at a shop. But it can be done in your driveway. I did a clutch for a customer once and after putting the new clutch in I could not get the clutch to work. I had to extend the clutch adjuster a bit and it worked fine. If you were in NJ I would be more than happy to give you a hand, but I see you are all the way in TN.
 

Riotnrrd

Tennessee Chapter member
OK, next question(s):

Took a look at the transmission housing, which has the following tag on the passenger side:

D9TA7003 LA FE11
6 19 79 2 435

This tells me its an NP435, made in 6/19/1979. It has a little hatch next to the tag, which I have read is a power take off port (PTO).

Question: Is it possible this tag says one thing, but the transmission is actually something else? The tag is on the transmission itself, not the bellhousing over the clutch...

Next question: In looking at clutch kits, theres one for models 73-76, and another for models 77-79. What is the difference between these model years as far as the clutch is concerned? The two sources I looked at (LMC and Bronco Graveyard) both have different part numbers for the early and later series. I'm wondering if the transmission determines the clutch, or if its the engine or flywheel or something else?

Thanks as always!
 

gsxr1238

Be fast.....or be last.
Could be the size of the clutch.I think the 300 has an 11" clutch.The other difference might be whether it is diaphragm or lever pressure plate.The big differences between those two,is the release lever and throwout bearings.Hope this helps.
 

Riotnrrd

Tennessee Chapter member
For example see these two links from Bronco Graveyard:
First is 65-76 300s
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-21242-1965-76-fseries-300-c-i-11-luk-clutch-kit.html
Next is 77-79 300s
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-21244-1977-79-fseries-300-c-i-11-luk-clutch-kit.html

Both appear to have (if the description is correct) the same diameter, spline size, and teeth. LMC truck catalog shows similar, a different part number for 73-76, and 77-79. Which makes me wonder... how are they different?

gsxr1238: The release bearing and lever type are different? Don't suppose you have some pictures?

Its a 79 body, appears to be a 79 transmission (see tranny tag above), but may have some 76 parts in it (according to the guy I bought it from). I'll try and pull the engine ID after work today... I'm guessing if its a 79 engine and 79 tranny a 79 clutch should be correct :)
 
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1985 Ford F-150

Country Boys Can Survive
7,816
307
Tooele, Utah
Id go get it from a parts store that way if ya get the wrong one ya dont have to wait a week and a half for the other one. The parts store might not have a split in the years like that does either and they can probly tell ya if its differnt.
 

gsxr1238

Be fast.....or be last.
Both pictures you have from JBG show to be a diaprhagm plate.Look to be the same clutch for specs.There really is no price difference between the two styles.Go to Napa online and look at the clutches there.You will see that a lever clutch has three levers in the pressure plate,and the diaphragm clutch has several fingers that operate the pressure plate.I only mention the release lever and throwout as being different,when I helped a friend change his clutch,and it was a diaphragm style,as opposed to the lever style in my truck.Hope this helps.
 
I'd check to see what parts store has the several types of clutches near by in warehouses. Order one in, Then pull the clutch from the truck and match it up. If it's not the correct one have send another.

CHANGE the PILOT bushing too.
 

Riotnrrd

Tennessee Chapter member
Truck mysteriously started working again just before having it towed to the shop. My friend thinks it didn't want to go to the doctor!

Doctor checked it out and everything seems fine. My current theory is that the transfer case was jammed up? Cause everything seems FINE now!

Good, I guess :)
 
Transfer case being jammed wouldn't cause the clutch to not disengage.
Neutral in the transmission releases power from the engine, before it gets to the transfer case
 

BKW

Ford Parts Guru
For example see these two links from Bronco Graveyard:
First is 65-76 300s
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-21242-1965-76-fseries-300-c-i-11-luk-clutch-kit.html
Next is 77-79 300s
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-21244-1977-79-fseries-300-c-i-11-luk-clutch-kit.html

Both appear to have (if the description is correct) the same diameter, spline size, and teeth. LMC truck catalog shows similar, a different part number for 73-76, and 77-79. Which makes me wonder... how are they different?
1973/79 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalog / Final printing 10/88:

DOTZ7515A .. Clutch Release Lever

1970/79 F100/350 240/300/302/360/390 / 1975/78 351M/400 / 1979 F100/350 351M/400 before serial number DG0,001.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EOTZ7548B .. Throwout Bearing

1973/79 F100/350 & 1973/79 Econoline 240/300/302/351M/360/390/400.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
D6TZ7550A .. Clutch Disc & D2TZ7563A .. Pressure Plate / 12 springs / 11"

240/300: 1973/76 F100/350.
---------------------------
D7TZ7550C .. Clutch Disc & D7TZ7563C .. Pressure Plate / 5 springs / 11"

300: 1977 F100/350 before serial number Y80,001.
------------------------------------------------
D7TZ7550C .. Clutch Disc & D7TZ7563F .. Pressure Plate / 5 springs / 11"

300: 1977 F100/350 from serial number Y80,001.
------------------------------------------------
D8TZ7550B .. Clutch Disc & D7TZ7563F .. Pressure Plate / 5 springs / 11"

300: 1978/79 F100/350.

I didn't look at the links, because they are for today's "universal fitz-all" replacement parts...prolly made in China.

For quality parts, your local NAPA store will have them. I wouldn't get diddly-doo from LMC, even a free catalog, cuz it's no better than their crappy Chinese parts.
 
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Riotnrrd

Tennessee Chapter member
For quality parts, your local NAPA store will have them. I wouldn't get diddly-doo from LMC, even a free catalog, cuz it's no better than their crappy Chinese parts.

I've heard LMC is not good from a couple folks on here. I have used them before, as well as Jeffs Bronco Graveyard and Rock Auto Parts. Any other online vendors worth dealing with?

Never been to a NAPA, but several positive reviews from them as well.

THANKS BKW!
 
Not everything LMC sells is their own product or label rated product

Most of these aftermarket places buy from the same manufacturer.

Dennis Carpenter and Blue Oval Trucks parts IMO awe the best all round companies


One really has to be careful about sheet metal though

This applies to all suppliers

In most cases sheet metal is the same or better when you but from a local supplier ie: Bodyshop sheet metal supplier

Visit your local bodyshop before you buy.
 

BKW

Ford Parts Guru
Not everything LMC sells is their own product or label rated product

Most of these aftermarket places buy from the same manufacturer.

Dennis Carpenter and Blue Oval Trucks parts IMO awe the best all round companies.
How much does LMC sell that is their own product? Next to none.

LMC is a middleman operation, uses the J. Paul Getty method of making money.

When you order something, pay for it in advance, they take that money, buy the parts elsewhere, then ship it to you.

The bottom line is: You get what you pay for, because parts quality varies wildly. If you can buy the parts locally from NAPA or a good indie autoparts store, chances are the parts will be top notch, plus...

You won't have to pay any shipping charges...then have to pay them AGAIN, to send the crap parts back if they aren't correct.

btw: All the repop sheet metal comes from the Orient, as do the grilles, regardless of who offers them.
 
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