Straight-up timing set for a 400

[fatherdoug]

Got the dampener off. I bent the cheap-a** bolts that came with the dampener puller, but it is off. Also removed the backing plate. I will have to remove the oil pan. Now I see what you mean, Ben. At the least I would have to remove it to get the front part of the gasket in place.

The gears were metal, thankfully, and the timing WAS installed as original factory.(4 deg retarded). I did get the timing to TDC before I pulled the dampener, and both dots on the crank and cam are lined up dot-to-dot.

 

[fatherdoug]

I was able to pull the old timing set off with my hands. I got the new set on with matched up dots. If weather cooperates tomorrow, I can pull the oil pan, replace the gasket, and start putting stuff back together.

I was amazed at the amount of slop in the chain(probably 1/2") after 8 years, but only 30,000 miles.

 

[DNFXDLI]

That doesn't seem too excessive Doug...hopefully your weather cooperates!

 

[SuperCab]

They tend to stretch initially.

 

[fatherdoug]

Thank you. The new chain has very little play in it.

 

[cbaker65]

Thank you. The new chain has very little play in it.

With that much slop,wouldnt that cause the timing to fluxuate,causing
the engine to run unstable?
Me an my Dad had a 79 1 ton with that engine in it,we rebuilt the engine
in it,it had a #2 ring busted.We took it to a machine shop an they said it
was no good,an try to sale us a 350 with trade in with the 400m.
We said no way.
We think he was trying to swindle the block from us...
Well we got the engine in,an it pured like a new one....

So maybe that engine is a popular one...

 

[SuperCab]

Like Duncan said, 1/2 inch is well within spec.

I've seen ones so loose they hit the timing chain cover And yes, when they are that loose it will affect your timing. But 1/2 inch is fine.

 

[DNFXDLI]

And it's a 400..not a 400M

 

[cbaker65]

And it's a 400..not a 400M

Maybe it was the 351m...IDK...been 20 yrs....

 

[DNFXDLI]

 

[LEB Ben]

Glad it came off so easily for you Doug. 1/2" of deflection is actually still pretty decent. Like Matty Bear said, I've pulled some off that are darn near slapping the block.

 

[fatherdoug]

That is good to know. Thanks. Looks like I will have to remove the starter to get at one of the oil pan bolts. I will also have to remove the driver's header since it crosses over at the back of the oil pan. I can't get the oil pan out without removing the header.

The biggest pain of this whole job is getting the dipstick tube out of the oil pan. I can't get the retaining nut to loosen.

 

[fatherdoug]

The new seal for the timing chain cover has a lip on it. Does the lip go on the inside of the cover(toward the engine), or on the outside of the cover. The old seal did not have a lip on it.

Finally got the oil pan to drop down, but I still can't get the dipstick tube out of the oil pan. I'm going to cut off the upper tube bracket with a dremel, and put a closed end wrench on it to see if I can loosen that way. I can't pull the pan until the tube comes out.

 

[LEB Ben]

That is good to know. Thanks. Looks like I will have to remove the starter to get at one of the oil pan bolts. I will also have to remove the driver's header since it crosses over at the back of the oil pan. I can't get the oil pan out without removing the header.

The biggest pain of this whole job is getting the dipstick tube out of the oil pan. I can't get the retaining nut to loosen.

I just always use a ratchet with extension and a wobble joint. Pan gets hung up on the starter, but a couple taps with a dead blow persuades it out. Then you just have wiggle your ears, balance on your right foot (not left) and hold your tongue just right, and you should be able to weasel the pan out with dipstick tube still attached.

The new seal for the timing chain cover has a lip on it. Does the lip go on the inside of the cover(toward the engine), or on the outside of the cover. The old seal did not have a lip on it.

Finally got the oil pan to drop down, but I still can't get the dipstick tube out of the oil pan. I'm going to cut off the upper tube bracket with a dremel, and put a closed end wrench on it to see if I can loosen that way. I can't pull the pan until the tube comes out.

I always do the lip towards the engine. Actually never thought if this was correct or not, but I'd assume if there's pressure coming from anywhere, it'll be from inside the engine, and you don't want it blowing out.

 

[m78]

I'd say that lip is on there to keep it from slipping past where it should be.
Like if your just doing the timing cover , it'll keep it from falling in.

 

[SuperCab]

The one with the lip is usually the offset one to wear a new groove in your harmonic balance. Just look at the rubber of the seal and you should be able to tell which way it goes. Guessing the lip goes inside the cover. Going off my rememberings of 360/390s though... Never worked on a 400.

 

[fatherdoug]

Thank you all. I put the lip on the inside of the cover(toward the engine) because that was what matched the bevel of the seal on the old one.

I had to cut the upper bracket off the dipstick tube so I could get a clo0sed end wrench onto the nut, and that loosened it. I dropped the oil pan and pulled the oil pump. The back seal on the pan was leaking slightly.

I got everything back in place except for the radiator and the alternator.....Maybe tomorrow I can start it and see what happens(fingers crossed.)

 

[LEB Ben]

I can't stress enough, make sure your water pump is torqued to spec...especially the lower bolts, because the balancer and pulleys get in the way and you can not access them without tearing down again...and if you have a leak, you'll be one pissed off gear head. Don't tighten too much on bolts that go through the timing cover, there are only 2-3 threads to begin with, and you'll strip those mofo's in a heartbeat.

 

[fatherdoug]

Testify, Brother! I learned that lesson in 1983.

 

[fatherdoug]

Success! Got everything put back together. It started the first time. The timing checked out at 10 deg BTDC, just like before.

I do have a small oil leak on the seal at the back of the oil pan, which I will have to address. Also had to tighten up two bolts on the top of water pump, due to leakage.

It does seem like the engine is a little more responsive now than it was. The end goal was a bigger grin, and I have that.

I want to thank everybody for all their support, advice, and information. Without it, this job would not have been possible. Thank you, FTF!