broken shock stud on radius arm

[racsan]

well today i was changing my front shocks & on the passenger side i twisted off the nut/threads for the lower mount (on the radius arm) still had the stub for the shock to go on. i drilled into the mounting point, tapped & threaded it for a 8mm bolt. put the new shock on then used a 8mm bolt, nut & a fender washer to retain the shock to the stud. i put the nut all the way onto the bolt, slid the washer on, tightend the bolt until it stopped, then tightend down the nut. i then cutt off the excess bolt sticking out past the nut. (didnt know if the tire would get into it in a turn, thought id better to be safe) any reason this "repair" wouldnt work long term? not sure if id need a whole new radius arm to do it right, didnt look at the backside of the arm to see if the shock mount stud was easily removeable. drivers side came off with no problem. truck had the origninal front shocks on it, i did the rears about 4 years ago & never got around to the fronts until now.

 

[73F100Shortbed]

Should work. On my sister's old Chevy blazer had a simliar situation where the mount broke. I welded a lug stud to the broken part. Worked for years. What you did sounds like it'll work fine.

 

[john112deere]

I put about 50k miles on a similar repair on my '97- no problems.

EDIT: Wait 8mm? Pretty sure I used a 5/8" bolt. Grade 8.

 

[racsan]

yep 8mm, remember the stud is still there, the 8mm bolt i put in merely hold a fender washer to the shock bushing, keeping it from sliding off (not sure that it would, but better than nothing)

 

[john112deere]

Oh...I got'cha. I cut the stud off and drilled though the radius arm. Little different.

Hell, though- I used a piece of clothesline to tie the shock to what was left of the stud and it held together well enough to get me to work, to the parts store, and to my buddies machine shop. Obviously not a long-term fix, but it worked long enough to get where I needed to go.

I'd guess you're OK.