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Starts good.

my truck started running a little rough on the way home from work,43 mile drive.by the time i got home ,it was barely running and quit would not restart.

once it cooled off it starts right up runs good for maybe 5 minutes then starts dropping cyls. cool off and repeat.I changed fuel filters(motorcraft) fuel looked good.tested ficm,koeo 48.4 volts.looked for bubbles in

fuel bowl,none.there is no cel, and i havent tried to pull any codes.batterys have 14.3 volts running,from what ive been reading looks like hpop,cant find a fitting for fuel pressure test will look more tomorrow. a

couple of things:in the past when warm it just kind of rolls to life.is this normal? and any other ideas on my problem?2003 6.0 with 146000 miles.dont know history as ive only owned it a year although it looks well

maintained.
 
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blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
my truck started running a little rough on the way home from work,43 mile drive.by the time i got home ,it was barely running and quit would not restart.

once it cooled off it starts right up runs good for maybe 5 minutes then starts dropping cyls. cool off and repeat.I changed fuel filters(motorcraft) fuel looked good.tested ficm,koeo 48.4 volts.looked for bubbles in

fuel bowl,none.there is no cel, and i havent tried to pull any codes.batterys have 14.3 volts running,from what ive been reading looks like hpop,cant find a fitting for fuel pressure test will look more tomorrow. a

couple of things:in the past when warm it just kind of rolls to life.is this normal? and any other ideas on my problem?2003 6.0 with 146000 miles.dont know history as ive only owned it a year although it looks well

maintained.
03 doesn't have an stc fitting. You'll probably have either a bad dummy plug o-ring, or a bad hpop.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
On the o3's I beleive they used the log style oil rail so there are no dummy plugs. You may have a injector going bad and hanging open slightly allowing combusion gas into the fuel system killing injectors one by one. One way to check for this is, when the truck starts running bad and quits, crack the upper fuel filter cover to releive pressure if she starts right back up that it probably the problem.
 
So heres what i did today,i rechecked the fuel bowl for bubbles and sure enough i had bubbles .so i unhooked pass side fuel line at cyl head and did test again, no bubbles.so does this mean bad injecter or an oring leaking?
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
So heres what i did today,i rechecked the fuel bowl for bubbles and sure enough i had bubbles .so i unhooked pass side fuel line at cyl head and did test again, no bubbles.so does this mean bad injecter or an oring leaking?
Yeah, You'll have a bad copper washer on one of the injectors. Short of checking power balance with an IDS, you'll have to pull the injectors one by one. Remember, when you remove or just loosen an injector, you have to replace the o-rings and copper washer on them.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
Most likely what you have is a injector that is sticking open internally. You may want to just replace all the injectors on the bank that had the bubbles. Or you can put it together and use a scan tool with power balance to see what injector drops out first and that is usually the one that is leaking (but not always)
 
So i guess i screwed up by taking it apart before i knew which injectors were bad,I dont really have the cash to replace all 4 on that bank.I read on the internet( so it must be true right ) that i could vacuum test.put a hose on the end of the infector and see if it holds vac.True or false. to be honest im questioning a bad injector at all.yes i did see major bubbles in the fuel bowl while cranking but copper looks good no soot looking like a leak.:headbang:
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
Im not sure about the vacuum test but you could try it. I do know from what you describe it sounds like you have a injector letting combustion gas into the fuel system and the cause is not always the copper washer so you may not see anything obvious just by looking.
 
I took the other side apart.3 injectors had sucked orings.so i replaced with 4 oring kits.didnt change a thing.still runs 5 minutes then starts missing ,shaking and ratteling.ive got 50-52 psi fuel pressure which is a bit low.i dont know what else to do.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
Without seeing any live data its going to be tough diagnosing. Power balance, fuel pressure when concern happens, ficm voltages when concern happens,dtcs KOEO, KOER, wiggle test while watching pid data.
 
I put a scanguage 2 on it,ficm voltage stays 47-48 even though i did see 44.5 for a second,ipr,800-900 icp 25-31% none of this changes when it starts acting up.Its going to dealer tomorrow to have diagnosed.One thing I did find was part of the old fuel filter and oring still in housing. It would stick in filter when i would take it out so i didnt see it till one time it stayed on tube.i had this changed at dealer when it started acting up on the way home from work.may have blocked fuel passage and starved for fuel.I dont know
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
I put a scanguage 2 on it,ficm voltage stays 47-48 even though i did see 44.5 for a second,ipr,800-900 icp 25-31% none of this changes when it starts acting up.Its going to dealer tomorrow to have diagnosed.One thing I did find was part of the old fuel filter and oring still in housing. It would stick in filter when i would take it out so i didnt see it till one time it stayed on tube.i had this changed at dealer when it started acting up on the way home from work.may have blocked fuel passage and starved for fuel.I dont know
Thats possible. Is it on the top filter or bottom one?
 
top filter,theres a plastic piece in there that engages the cap.went out to move it ficm volts went down to 44 stayed 45-46 till alt kicked in.its about 20 degrees out.
 
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What ive done so far.replaced 2 injectors on right bank,replaced orings on right bank,replaced 4 oring sets on left bank.this was before i discovered the extra oring and plastic filter piece in top filter housing. i'm basically back at square one. still getting air bubbles in fuel cup so maybe i have a bad injecter or two,no codes, so the question is will the dealers testing be able to tell me what injectors are bad with no codes? and do i tell the dealer what i've done already?
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
What ive done so far.replaced 2 injectors on right bank,replaced orings on right bank,replaced 4 oring sets on left bank.this was before i discovered the extra oring and plastic filter piece in top filter housing. i'm basically back at square one. still getting air bubbles in fuel cup so maybe i have a bad injecter or two,no codes, so the question is will the dealers testing be able to tell me what injectors are bad with no codes? and do i tell the dealer what i've done already?
If its a decent dealer, yes, they should be able to pinpoint the problem. Dont tell them what you've done, that'll just muddy the waters.
 

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