My 521 Build Thread

[G.O. Stang]

This thread will encompass my 521 build. I do all my own machine work as well as engine building. So I will be going in depth with the build as far as a step by step in the machining process and the build itself. So lets get started!

Here we are starting with a D1VE-A2B block. Originally a 429. I have the original crank that I will be saving(or will sell for a reasonable price.)

I started off by boring .020 over to check for cracks in the cylinders. No use paying to have it cleaned if the block isn't usable.

All cylinders good. Off to the blasting booth.

Looking brand new!

I'm going to start off by getting the main housing bores into spec. I only get 4 hours a day to work on this so this will probably be a multi part. First off we need our fasteners.

ARP Studs should do the trick.

All torqued to 110ft. Lbs.

That's all for now. I will be using an Eagle rotating assembly for my build. It's a great value and has all good parts. Forged everything. Here's a link to the kit. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/esp-15011030

More to come. Should update and post daily. Stay tuned.

 

[DNFXDLI]

Subscribed .

 

[5.0Flareside]

Subbed.. What's the overal goal power wise and usage?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

 

[LEB Ben]

Subscribed...

 

[77mud]

Nice! Running a set of factory head's like Dove's or you goin alum?

 

[nobodyspecial]

Price on the 429 crank? I have always thought about building my 460 into a 429, just for fun.

 

[G.O. Stang]

Subbed.. What's the overal goal power wise and usage?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

Over all goal to to make a much horsepower possible and still be street able. I don't have any definite numbers in mind, but I'll use 700hp as a starting point. I'm not looking for torque and don't really care what that will equate to. But we can all assume it'll make loads of torque due to sheer size of the engine. It doesn't have a home as far as a vehicle yet. It may find a home in a Dent if I could find one set up for a 460 already with a blown engine or absence of one.

Nice! Running a set of factory head's like Dove's or you goin alum?

I'm going to port out a set of D3VEs. I have a set of D0VEs, but they will make my compression to high for pump gas. The D3s will put me right at 11.1 which I should be able to manage with some 93 octane. And if not, I can use a thicker head gasket to decrease the compression a little more. If I start working over the D3s and see that I won't be able to get what I need to from them, I'll look into an aluminum set. I am also on a budget in terms of what I can shell out in lump sums. The rotating assembly was from many months of saving. Although if anyone has a lead on a used set of aluminum heads I'd be interested. They can be complete or bare.

 

[5.0Flareside]

If you make more torque further down rpm range.. Your Peak Hp will be at a reasonable rpm and all that together makes it more fun and more street able..


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

 

[G.O. Stang]

If you make more torque further down rpm range.. Your Peak Hp will be at a reasonable rpm and all that together makes it more fun and more street able..


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

I guess I should rephrase.by street able I meant able to drive it on pump gas. I want it turning 6-7000 rpm. I don't think I'd trust the stock block much further than that. Peak torque will fall where it will. It won't see it much. With will be a race engine, not a towing engine.

 

[5.0Flareside]

6-7k?? On a big cube engine..

What type of trans is in the plans? Stall?

If your revving to 6-7k it's gonna be a dog off the line..


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

 

[Beach66Bum]

Subscribed

 

[fatherdoug]

Same....................

 

[G.O. Stang]

6-7k?? On a big cube engine..

What type of trans is in the plans? Stall?

If your revving to 6-7k it's gonna be a dog off the line..


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

I haven't decided on a trans yet. Like I said, the motor doesn't have a home yet, so I'm not planning that far. And it shouldn't be slow off the line. But it will ultimately depend on the gearing of the rear end and converter.

 

[5.0Flareside]

I'm sorry but I don't see why build an engine when you don't know any of the other variables.. That to me is mind blowing..

I mean how will you know what cam to choose, that's just one example..

Don't get me wrong so far in impressed with the work and details put in.. But as said above with knowing anything else why build it?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

 

[blacksnapon]

Good looking build. Just take your time, and build it like you want it.

 

[G.O. Stang]

I'm sorry but I don't see why build an engine when you don't know any of the other variables.. That to me is mind blowing..

I mean how will you know what cam to choose, that's just one example..

Don't get me wrong so far in impressed with the work and details put in.. But as said above with knowing anything else why build it?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

I suppose some backstory is necessary here. I'm a student at the School of Automotive Machinists in Houston, Tx. I've been trained by some of the best in the country to machine and assemble racing engines. As a student, I get to use the machines for free. I also recover a nice discount on most parts I would need. So while I'm here, and as a way of remembering this time in my life, I'm building a race motor. I it's being built as a trophy, more or less. A gift to myself. For finally doing something with my life. Finding my true calling and passion.

Now. As for a cam selection. For all intents and purposes, lets assume this is going into a dragster. High horsepower is the goal.

 

[G.O. Stang]

Now, part 2 of the mains.

Here I've out the caps in the grinder and ground the sides flat. This is to ensure we're working with a true square surface.

We just need to make sure there are three points of flatness to the sides so it stays square when we cut the bottoms.
(A note, I flat sanded the bottoms of the caps to take any taper out of them prior. Checking this with a dual bore gauge.)

Here we have #5 in the grinder. Taking .002 off of the bottom so it can be honed back out to proper spec.

All caps cut. Time to bolt them back on, check them, and hone them.

 

[LEB Paul]

:subscribe:

 

[G.O. Stang]

No update today. Didn't get to use the align hone. Tomorrow I should be able to. I should be taking delivery of my rotating assembly as well.

 

[G.O. Stang]

Update time. I got to use the align hone and honed them all out to spec. 3.1922 is the low side and that's what you want to shoot for. Here it is in the hone. Just finished it.

Now for some more interesting news. The rotating assembly has arrived. Que celebratory music.


And as we open the first box...


So lets start off with the rods.

Forged H-Beams. Included is some ARP lubricant and a sticker.

More in the next post.