Buzz's 460 upgrade

[DNFXDLI]

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[BuzzGun79]

Well as in any build or project there is what is called the "Unexpected" Be ready for it. I just found this while cleaning...Other than metal fatigue/engine vibration..I honestly have no explanation of how this happened....Maybe it IS a good thing i run a high volume oil pump..

 

[DNFXDLI]

That's just to make the oil look like an Aero chocolate bar Bob










Factory option, I'm told....

 

[BuzzGun79]

LOL.... I new i could count on you in my moment of crisis Duncan!! Lmao....

 

[5.0Flareside]

I've never really though running a high volume oil pump.. Even on HP builds.. Buddies 1300 Hp lightning.. Standard volume, heavy duty pump..


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

 

[DNFXDLI]

I agree 100% Chris...and in some cases they can build too much pressure with cold oil and blow seals out.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Intresting men...Ive never have had a an issue with them in my builds over the yrs..

 

[DNFXDLI]

It always seemed to be the "defacto" standard with hi-perf builds...then an old guy (prolly 50) when I was 17, ...had a talk with me about them and what he said made sense.
Even Tim Meyer who supplied my 434 stuff stayed with the standard pump, although with a different diptube....and that is 30+ years later.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Very Good points brought up here! and i do understand where your coming from men. It is NOT necessary to go the high volume route in reality..It is what it is. I mean no disrespect here to anyone.I am confident in my ablities through my own mechanical experiences.I do not claim to be in the Elite staus by no means. I am Just an Experienced do it yourself type individual to save on cost's.

 

[primetime]

On a Ford with a high volume pump I would insist on an upgraded oil pump drive shaft. They will also put more load on the distributor and drive gear and can contribute to spark scatter. Top speed racers tend to use standard volume pumps because a high volume can suck the pan dry over the course of the run.

Would I worry about it? No. Do I use them? No.

 

[G.O. Stang]

Engine machinist and builder here. Stone hones work just fine for high performance. You just use different stones for racing or high performance applications. You probably used something close to a 318 or so, but you could use a 625 or even up to a 818 if you wanted a race cylinder.(I may be slightly off on those stone numbers but I'm very close. They vary.)

 

[BuzzGun79]

On a Ford with a high volume pump I would insist on an upgraded oil pump drive shaft. They will also put more load on the distributor and drive gear and can contribute to spark scatter. Top speed racers tend to use standard volume pumps because a high volume can suck the pan dry over the course of the run.

Would I worry about it? No. Do I use them? No.

Agreed Justin 100%!! Thank You!!

Here we have our Summit Racing High volume oil pump..the Shaft Justin has mentioned is included with the pump..and in this application a 460 HEI Conversion Distributor with the upgraded distributor gear!

Next ive applied several coats of high heat clear to the distributors casting above the block surface..Im hoping this will resolve pitting of the repolished casting..for this truck does sit under a car port exposed to climate conditons...something i hadnt thought of in my initial installation...Sorry Austin!

 

[BuzzGun79]

Engine machinist and builder here. Stone hones work just fine for high performance. You just use different stones for racing or high performance applications. You probably used something close to a 318 or so, but you could use a 625 or even up to a 818 if you wanted a race cylinder.(I may be slightly off on those stone numbers but I'm very close. They vary.)

Thank You G.O. For that correction!!! Although i cannot recall which # stones ive purchased for this is one of those tools thats nice to have..But realisticly,not used much these days..ive had it since back in the day...

 

[BuzzGun79]

were in the final process of component cleaning it does take time and is very tedious...

Front cover,oil pan bolts cam assesories,crank spacer

We finished up our Main caps / Bolts..Now we can see those numbers / Arrows clearly!!

Well it is Friday....Time for a break from all the work some quality time with the wife cooking out and some suds...Graduation Party tommorro for my youngest Niece Mallory!! Congtadualtions Mallory!! Uncle Bob is very proud of you!! Mallory will be attendeding Walsh University in the Fall She has chosen Nursing as her study! You Go Mal!! See you all Next week!! have a good one!!

 

[Beach66Bum]

Well deserved beer time! have a great weekend Bob

 

[Dirky]

Painting the lifter valley is very unneccesary and can only lead to trouble if it starts to flake.

These engines don't have drainback issues to begin with. Deburring and radiusing exsisting drains are good practices when building an engine.

If you change the oil regularly and run the engine nice and warm, that engine will stay clean for a long time. I'm sure you knew that though, you don't sound like an idiot!

 

[BuzzGun79]

Painting the lifter valley is very unneccesary and can only lead to trouble if it starts to flake.

These engines don't have drainback issues to begin with. Deburring and radiusing exsisting drains are good practices when building an engine.

If you change the oil regularly and run the engine nice and warm, that engine will stay clean for a long time. I'm sure you knew that though, you don't sound like an idiot!

Agreed Dirky! Believe me im very compulsive with my baby 2nd to the wife..lol
Grant it i may not be the smartest cookie in the jar..but i am no idiot..LOL Thanks man!

 

[BuzzGun79]

Well deserved beer time! have a great weekend Bob

You To Roy!! Thanks!!

 

[5.0Flareside]

Painting the lifter valley is very unneccesary and can only lead to trouble if it starts to flake.

These engines don't have drainback issues to begin with. Deburring and radiusing exsisting drains are good practices when building an engine.

If you change the oil regularly and run the engine nice and warm, that engine will stay clean for a long time. I'm sure you knew that though, you don't sound like an idiot!

just because they dont have draining problems dont mean ya cant help the engine a lil.

and if the block is prepped proper and paint applied right.. the paint wont flake..

 

[taxreliever]

Next ive applied several coats of high heat clear to the distributors casting above the block surface..Im hoping this will resolve pitting of the repolished casting..for this truck does sit under a car port exposed to climate conditons...something i hadnt thought of in my initial installation...Sorry Austin!

Hey Bob, just a thought and maybe some others can comment, but as you know, there is a lot of chrome in my engine bay and what I do to keep it from pitting from condensation and such during the WINTER months only (my rig is in an enclosed garage, but it isn't climate controlled - we're working on building a nice two bay garage for this truck and the next rig we find for baby #2 and that one will have the lifts and heat throughout the winter and such), is apply some regular car wax to those places, even the chrome wheels. I don't wipe it off of course until it's time for it's first detail of the summer. I just put a thick coat of regular car wax on all those chrome places and the wax actually repels any condensation or liquid. Wipe it down in the spring and it's as good as new.

Just thought I'd mention it.