Buzz's 460 upgrade

[BuzzGun79]

Hey Bob, just a thought and maybe some others can comment, but as you know, there is a lot of chrome in my engine bay and what I do to keep it from pitting from condensation and such during the WINTER months only (my rig is in an enclosed garage, but it isn't climate controlled - we're working on building a nice two bay garage for this truck and the next rig we find for baby #2 and that one will have the lifts and heat throughout the winter and such), is apply some regular car wax to those places, even the chrome wheels. I don't wipe it off of course until it's time for it's first detail of the summer. I just put a thick coat of regular car wax on all those chrome places and the wax actually repels any condensation or liquid. Wipe it down in the spring and it's as good as new.

Just thought I'd mention it.

Thanks Ken!! ......I should have thought of that my self...lol Now Last yr what i did, I placed 4 box fans under the bumpers,on the ground (2 in front and 2 in rear) and angled them by leaning the fans against a concrete block so the air would travel through the bottom of the rig...when i noticed the chrome on the wheels starting to fog up ide turn them on and just let them run on medium speed till dryer conditons returned the air would also reach the engine bay as well...works great Ken!

 

[Dirky]

just because they dont have draining problems dont mean ya cant help the engine a lil.

and if the block is prepped proper and paint applied right.. the paint wont flake..

Whatever works for you!

Waiting for updates buzz! Haha, project looks good!

 

[Austin]

Buzz, you make it look easy! I'll tear apart a dashboard or steering column, but very seldom will I take anything more than a spark plug off of an engine.

 

[Beach66Bum]

I agree Austin!
I'll be taking lots and lots of pic's when the time comes to do the 351

 

[taxreliever]

Buzz, you make it look easy! I'll tear apart a dashboard or steering column, but very seldom will I take anything more than a spark plug off of an engine.

You took the words right off of my monitor! Pretty intimidating.

 

[taxreliever]

I agree Austin!
I'll be taking lots and lots of pic's when the time comes to do the 351

This is wisdom and something I'd do if I ever had to work on something this big......for small projects too, heck.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Buzz, you make it look easy! I'll tear apart a dashboard or steering column, but very seldom will I take anything more than a spark plug off of an engine.

Austin.... With your talent...I really believe with a bit of learning and practice you could do this! Many are afraid..wrong mind set!! You Can Do it!

Whatever works for you!

Waiting for updates buzz! Haha, project looks good!

Coming Up Dirky!

I agree Austin!
I'll be taking lots and lots of pic's when the time comes to do the 351

Indeed Roy! Pics give good referance's should you forget how a part may be placed or wear you left off ect ect... along with documentation of your build..Grant it i havnt documented all my builds...But their still up in my head......I think..lol

You took the words right off of my monitor! Pretty intimidating.

Like Taxes are to Me Ken!

 

[Austin]

Austin.... With your talent...I really believe with a bit of learning and practice you could do this! Many are afraid..wrong mind set!! You Can Do it!

Thanks! I can say it's a fear... messing up an engine can be a little more costly than me messing up a window switch. I (with the help of people like yourself from the internet) have learned so much just by trial and error. I've always had the itch to build an engine, but never the guts!

 

[BuzzGun79]

Ok Finished up buffing cleaning the Top end bolts and the header bolts as well they were pretty rusty...we will treat those with the Header paint as well...

We also re detailed our Alternator then painted it with the heat aluminum look followed by 5 coats of heat clear...this time my OCD Is working overtime!

Next weve addresssed our alternator brackets,th dip stick tube,Painted and cleared our new Water Pump....Chris, I was thinking of you as far as my old one goes...so i decided now would be the time to change that.

Stay Tuned..... were getting very close now to reassembly......Dont ya just love the Drama Here.....lol

 

[taxreliever]

Like Taxes are to Me Ken!

Haha...this is funny cause I was actually thinking that.....I kept telling myself, "Dang, I'd love to be able to work on an engine like that......but at least I can do a Corporate Tax Return."

Ok Finished up buffing cleaning the Top end bolts and the header bolts as well they were pretty rusty...we will treat those with the Header paint as well...

We also re detailed our Alternator then painted it with the heat aluminum look followed by 5 coats of heat clear...this time my OCD Is working overtime!

OCD!!! That's what I'm talking about!!! I do the same, but with numbers....it's part of what makes you good at what you do (IMO).

 

[BuzzGun79]

Agreed Ken!! Because of unforseen incidents that got in the road initialy Ken...had to close it up early and get the motor in the truck..Now this did give me the opportunity to get all the swap from a 351M issues all sorted out..along with the truck itself..Now i want it right in a realistic manor that is within my means....

 

[BuzzGun79]

Ok Class....next we will install our.....

Rings...in standard size..remember we did NOT Bore the cylinders...Overbores require "Oversize Rings" Pending on the cylinder size bore..im not going to get into all that here.

First 'ALWAYS" read the instructions...I dont care how many times you may have done this..There are different proceedures for different types of rings...THIS IS ALSO A CRITICAL AREA...YOU WANT IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

Notice the top pics on the left of the instruction sheet...our rings have a "chamfer" in them...there is also a "Dot" stamped in the rings...Top ring the chamfer goes twards the top of the piston indicated by the Dot on the top side of the ring....Secondary rings..the chamfer goes twards the bottom..indicated by the dot on the "top" side of the ring.

Here ive identified and seperated the rings in groups...to the left our oil control rings and expanders...Top set of compression rings at the top...secondary set below

Now our instructions indicate starting with the oil control set first....First we install the expander.....you will notice a gap in the expander...these gaps will meet end to end upon ring installation ive installed the expander gap at the 6 oclock positon.....

Next we installed the top ring at the 9 oclock positon...followed by the bottom ring at the 3 oclock positon..this is called "ring stagger" it is very critical for proper ring sealing

Now for those compression rings...I do recommend use of a ring expanding tool for amature builders....these rings can break very easily...without it. I will install the rings in the same manor of the oil control..gaps at oppositte ends of each other...with the dots to the top of the piston...Are you getting all of this?.......

Now as we install them in the engine.....I will address ring Stagger very closely.....Sealed Power rings are available from our friends at..........

 

[BuzzGun79]

Knight School is now in session.... Tonights lesson.......

Torque wrench 101....Here we have on the left the "Beam" Type torque wrench...on the right a " Snap On" Click type..Both will work...But "I" prefer the click type in engine building for it is the most acurate imo.
Now the Beam type is read in either metric or ft pounds...when force is applied to the handle the needle will move to the desired reading indicated on the scale.....

here ive applied some leverage to the wrench handle to the 20ft pound reading indicated by the needle...remember when torquing a bolt use the two hand method...one hand on the head of the wrench to avoid slippage..the other on the handle...use slow and a steady push or pull motion with no binding of the unit...binding will give a false reading..so will the use of extensions..keep the wrench as close to the bolt as possible for an accurate torque reading.

The click type torque wrench here is read in Ft pounds only....by unlocking the handle,turning the handle to the desied specific reading desired then relocking the handle...when applied force reaches the desired ft pounds set..it will give a clicking indication of that desired reading...any further action after the clicking will be an over torque situation..same rule applies two hand method slow steady pulls or pushes( my self i do prefer to pull on the wrench handle...than push it)Keep the wrench as close as possible to the bolt being torqued...

class dismissed!

 

[DNFXDLI]

Nice post again Bob..I prefer the click type personally.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Thank you Duncan!! Me as well...Ive kept the beam around for some time now as a backup..... as you can probably tell ive never used it all these yrs..lol

 

[5.0Flareside]

I prefer click type between the two.. But I still overall prefer a digital that beeps.. For the fact you can easily change the measurement it's reading and also is easily recalibrated..


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

 

[BuzzGun79]

Well Chris...you are the new Hope for the future my friend!...

 

[5.0Flareside]

Well Chris...you are the new Hope for the future my friend!...

Huh?!?!?!?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

 

[Beach66Bum]

After seeing the last posts, I might just stay with my Lego Bob,

 

[primetime]

Just to add, DO NOT use your torque wrenches as breaker bars, and DO NOT store your click type wrenches with tension on them.